I mounted the seats finally.  I utilized some $25 sliding rails from Summit racing on the drivers side.  These will allow some of my shorter friends and relatives to drive the car.  The only drawback with the rails is that they raise the seat a little over an inch.  To make both seats even, I used 1" square aluminum tubing to raise the passenger seat.  Works great!   Rather than use the FFR-supplied sheet metal screws to mount the seats, I drilled and tapped the 4" round tube, and drilled through the 2" and 3/4" frame rails and used 3/8" bolts with large fender washers inside the seat bottoms.

Since my setup uses a Moroso inline filler neck and radiator cap in the upper radiator hose, I decided to ditch the original Mustang radiator cap and replace it with a 2-5/8" marine type expansion plug.  I also scrapped the original overflow tube and cheesy plastic tank.

I cut the fuel supply line and mounted the sending unit for my dash-mounted fuel pressure gage.  I needed a fifth "small" gage for the dash, and decided that a fuel pressure gage would be a useful trouble-shooting tool for a fuel injected engine.

The stock pedal box positions the brake and clutch pedals too close to the gas pedal for my liking.  My wide feet made finding the gas pedal difficult without hitting the brake too.  So, I bent a 3/4" dogleg in the brake pedal to move it to the left.   The clutch pedal needed to be moved back, as well as to the left.  I cut the pedal arm to move the pedal back, more inline with the brake pedal and added a 1/4" piece of flat-stock to effectively offset it by 1/2" to the left.  Welded the whole think up after careful fitting.  Works good, but still may need some tweaking.

Mounted the tail lights and turn signals.   I've been told that it's much easier to do now, than after the body is on! 

I picked up a "trailer wire harness adapter" at Autozone for $11.  I will wire this into the rear taillight circuits to allow me to have 4 brake lights rather than two.  This helps to increase visibility tremendously.

The rear cockpit aluminum was pretty easy although I did have to rebend some of the factory bends in the aluminum.  Once those were re-done, it went together really nicely.  FFR tells you to install the rear cockpit aluminum after the body is on, but the concensus seems to be that it's much easier before hand.

A local FFR builder, Don Gaboury stopped by to check out my progress and introduce himself.  I was thrilled to find Don's name on Cobraforum since he's in Manassas, VA.   I'm happy that there seem to be more and more Cobra guys popping up around here!   Also had a visit from Dave Waite.  Dave is a 5.0 guy from way back and is considering building a Cobra.  It was nice to shoot the breeze with both of these fellows.

Well, the big day arrived, and the whole family woke up with a NASTY stomach bug.   One of my helpers called to say he was sick too, so we bagged the whole idea of mounting the body.  Bummer.  Spent most of the day on the couch.

Sunday, I decided I could lay around and feel bad or go to the garage and feel bad.   I actually got a lot accomplished.  I finished routing and wrapping the wire harness.  God am I glad that the wiring is winding down.  I tried to hide as much of it as possible to keep the engine compartment looking clean and uncluttered.   Installed all of the press-on trim that goes on the edges of the aluminum where it contacts the body. 

I installed a fuse-holder and a 5A fuse around the main battery disconnect.  This will allow the computer to retain it's memory when the main disconnect is cut-off.   However, if somebody attempts to hot-wire the car, the fuse will pop.